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waters of Sri Lanka- salt water, brackish & fresh are as rich in undersea
life as any in the world. Equipped with only a face mask, a person can dive in
bracing clear green rivers in the wet forest. He can explore tidal lagoons
where the crystal sea of the East-Coast floes up estuaries & reveals &
new world of mangroves, oyster- covered rocks & large edible crabs.
But
it is the blue water if the Indian Ocean that are Sri Lanka’s premier diving
attraction. Coral reefs & off shore ship- wrecks harbor a new world of
breathtaking clarity. There are sensational fish and sand- stone formations in
the great & little basses reefs. And a foray off Negombo will bring about
close encounters with sizeable & exciting game fishes.
It
is important to know that the best times of the year to visit these spots, as
clarity of surrounding waters changes periodically according to monsoon season
& other prevailing weather conditions. A rewarding diving expedition to Sri
Lanka needs careful timing, patient and understanding. Bu the end result,
whether you are photographing, collecting, fishing or just experiencing, is
well worth it.
A tour of the island
Starting from Negombo,
the closest town to the international airport, we will travel counter clock
wise along the coast, exploring diving spots en route. Negombo, from November
till March, offers surprisingly good diving. Do not expect continuous clear
water every day of the five months. The strong currents, heavy rainfall, and
the nearby presence of a lagoon rich in silt and plankton, cause periodic
turbidity. But this contributes to the fact that Negombo offers the finest
seafood in the country. The young & energetic often spear barracudas, queen
fish, caran x or hefty estuary perch without breathing gear. Lobster- grabbing
can be done by night with a flashlight & strong gloves. Fir the camera,
seek waters further out if the reefs are not clear enough. But if the
preference is for close- up, there are a few hundred subjects to click on the
reef itself.
A few miles down the
coast near Kapungoada (about two hours away by speedboat) there are two shallow
ship wrecks which are treasure troves of invertebrates, lobster & snappers.
You may troll a line for that occasional hungry barracuda, to small (in this
region) to be dangerous to human beings. A 25 pounder is considered a very big
fish & he will hit a bait quits obligingly, especially in the evening.
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dive off the famous Mount Lavinia
beach (only on the calmest days, though) will bring you face to face with a
variety of photogenic fishes, the loveliest & commonest bring the blue ring
angels. Further south id Beruwala, the rocky island off the Bentota hotel
complex is quite an interesting dive spot with large parrot fish, snappers
& other reef dwellers.
For a dive that is
different, have yourself taken inland to a place called Badureliva, then to at Weltota
where you can explore a lovely jungle rock pool with clear green waters, sunken
long rocks, aquatic plants & some lovely little tropical freshwater fishes.
Not to mention the fine rain forest around you, gentle friendly people, and an
atmosphere far removed from that of a beach hotel.
Back of the coast,
further south is Ambalangoda. At most times of the year, it is not absolutely
clear because of a creek mouth close by. But there are some really good calm
days in January & February. You will pass a headland with fringing coral
reef & sea breakers about a half mile or so sea wards at Akurala, which offers
splendid rock & reef diving, two ship wrecks & an abundance of fishes.
Hikkaduwa, the famous
diving center of the south west coast, has unfortunately been “over dived” the
fishes are nervous & confused. Using Hikkaduwa as a base, instead dive
Dodanduwa further south & the marvelous rocky reefs off Gintota, Medagala
& Ralagala, perhaps the greatest diving on the west coast. Medagala is not
easily found, though, as the highest point does not break in calm weather.
Although much can be seen & enjoyed with a snorkel, tank diving to the
Malabar ship wreck, 60 to 802 feet deep on a rock reef is a welcome adventure
to those who are keen underwater photographers.
Galle harbor is the
perfect take-off point to enjoy some fine diving north at Alugala, which
provides a new wreck to explore. Diving off the Koggala coast is not recommended
unless you are a strong swimmer. But Weligama & its surroundings can be
excellent. These are several rock & coral reefs to explore, especially off
Mirissa with its teeming fishermen & boats.
Matara a few miles from
the southern- most tip of Sri Lanka at Dondara, Provides diving only in
February and march when drought can make
the nearby Nilwala river less turbid, enabling you to see some fine fish over
the reef. Tangalle, which is beautifully located, has fine diving; but too
offer the sea gets over lively. One of the better spot is kupatha, a small
rocky islet visible from the Tangalle rest hoose, haunted by huge schools of
parrot fidh, sweetlip & snappers.
A few miles down the
coast near Kapungoada (about two hours away by speedboat) there are two shallow
ship wrecks which are treasure troves of invertebrates, lobster & snappers.
You may troll a line for that occasional hungry barracuda, to small (in this
region) to be dangerous to human beings. A 25 pounder is considered a very big
fish & he will hit a bait quits obligingly, especially in the evening.
