Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Polonnaruwa Gal Viharaya


T
he commissioner of the archeological survey of Ceylon in 1907 wrote in his annual report that " this rock-hewn shrine, the rock temple is the most impressive antiquity far excellence to be seen in the island of Ceylon, and possibly not rivaled throughout the continent of India, amazed at the sight of the shrine, he then went on to describe the sight in a poetical essay.

The line of gigantic figures carved from the grey rock which forms their background, calm immovable, majestic, and amid the hush of the surrounding forest, gazing ever fixedly into space with the persiveness of profound meditation, or wrapped in eternal slumber, must inspire in the thoughtful beholder wonder and admiration, mingled with an instinctive sense of silent awe. The irresistible charm & sublimity of the “Gal Vihara" could not but appeal forcibly to the few observant visitors who, for the last century, have chanced to view it in its peaceful wooded seclusion untouched by axe & spade.

As we know, it was lt. Fagan in 1820 that who found his way to Polonnaruwa & pushed the exploration of the jungle- buried ruins as far north as the Gal Vihara. He wrote a description of what he saw there and concluded by saying " I may have over looked many interesting points in this great monument of superstition nearly dark and I was obliged to return to Topary (Topaveva) twenty years later, in 1841 major fobs included a description of the Gal Vihara in his book & some fourteen years later, in 1855, sir Samuel baker visited this rock temple.

Sir Emerson Tennet too high lightened the Gal Vihara in 1861 and so did J.W Birch, Lt. R.W Stewart in 1868 who first photographed the Gal Vihara ruins. All these early references are important to us to study this unique monument. To this list of eminent men could be added names such as H.C.P Bell, R Ayton & Senarath Paranawithana.

The rock is 56 yards in length & falls away gradually at each end. Its face is cut back nearly 15ft. For the sculpturing of the three images & as much as 17ft to provide the cave shrine for the sedan Buddha. The most southerly of the figures is the seated in “veer asana". It is on a throne decorated with lions & thunder bolts, and behind the head of Buddha is the halo or the " prabhamandala". This statue is in the vijjadharaguha. As seen today by the remaining brick walls, there was only one rock carved cave and three brick vaulted image house. The disputed so called Anandha statue is not mentioned in the chronicle though it is separated from the recumbent Buddha. The seated Buddha image in the vijjadharaguha has an ornamental arch the surrounds the figure, with small Buddha figures in the niches. The makaras or mythical dragons which project from the arch hold lion in their mouths. All these features go to indicate that it was meant for the recitation of magical verses of Tantric Buddhism. The statue was originally painted. It measures 15ft 2.5 in from the asanaya to ushnisha.

The next one inside the Nisinnapatimaguha is carved out of solid rock. The Buddha is depicted as seated on a throne under a parasol and flanked by attendants bearing flywhisks. Above are the statues of the god Brahma, to the right of the Buddha and Vishnu on the left showing that the Buddha is devatideva or above all gods. Traces of wall- paintings are seen clearly on the walls of the cave. Next to this cave is the famous rock inscription of parakramabahu recording the convening of Buddhist council by the king & the establishment or rulers for the good conduct of the monks.

The next sculpture, a most controversial figure believed to be either Anandha or Buddha. However, the fact remains that this statue was not mentioned in the chronicle as one built by king Parakramabahu. He built only three caves to house three different Buddha statues, two sedans & one in recumbent attitude. Then what is this 23 feet high standing statue. It is quite possible that this statue was a later addition to the group as there was space for another, especially for a missing attitude of the Buddha, and that is the standing figure. That vacuum is now filled by someone whom we cannot indentify. Statistically this statue also belongs in some degree to the same period.

The brick foundation also provides ample evidence to show that this separate cave which we can name as " utthitapatimaguha" , the cave with the standing images, was a later addition filling a void mainly the " standing posture". It is one of the three common postures found in Sri Lanka. The other being the “walking attitude" which is called the sankamana, & not found here.
According to popular belief, however, this image is thought to represent Anandha, the chief disciple of Buddha sorrowing at the death of the master whose statue is shown in the lying posture adjoining the present image. This belief is no more accepted. The statue on a lotus pedestal & hair in ringlets no doubt represents Buddha.

Taken this statue as the image of the Buddha, there are two theories with regards the mudras or gestures depicted by the hands. Paranavithana was of the opinion that is represents the Buddha as paradukkha-dukkhita meaning he who is sorrowing for the sorrow of others. The latest theory put forward by prematilleke is that it represents the Buddha in the second week after attaining buddhahood by paying his respect to the Bodhi tree. Therefore the Bodhi tree planted there by the custodians of the cultural triangle project to remind us that incident. While the present author completely disagrees with the second theory, he also disagrees with the first where paranavithana speaks of a sorrowing Buddha. Actually Buddha did not weep or lament over the sorrow of others. That is not in keeping with the Buddha nature. The present author believes that this, Buddha image depicts the great compassion or " Maha karunawa" of the Buddha towards world beings.

The immense figure lying next to this in a lying posture in the Nipannapatima lena(cave) is forty feet long and depicts the final passing away of the Buddha. The left foot of the Buddha rests on the right & is slightly drawn back. The feet too like the head rest on a cushion & the soles are ornamented with the lotus flower.


The centre of the cushion on which the head of the Buddha rests is decorated with the kirtimukha or face of the lion. This image house had its own separated entrance & two windows in addition. The liquid flow of the robes over the body & the calm expression of the face are beautifully interpreted.