From
the dawn of commercial navigation, the Romans, Arabs & Chinese sailed this islands-Galle
And Jaffna being ports on the silk routes to acquire its fabulous merchandise
such as ivory, ebony, tortoise-shell, pearls & gems. Furthermore the
island’s spices were in demand, particularly cinnamon, obtained from an endemic
species, cinnamomum zeylanicum which has historical been
considered the world’s finest: a gift fit for a monarch or a god in ancient
times. Pliny the elder, during the first century AD, wrote that a mere 350
grams of cinnamon was equal in value to five kilograms of silver. Trade in it
was such that Michel Boyn (1652) revealed : “there were to be seen in the
Persian gulf 400 Chinese vessels laden with zeilan ( Ceylon/Sri lanka)
cinnamon, species & other goods.”
“Zeilan
cinnamon”, such a moniker was accurate, fro even today this spice is giving the
same geographic identity in the spice trade, namely “ Ceylon Cinnamon”, and its
fine quality is reflected by its grade, “True Cinnamon” the bark is paper thin,
brittle, yellowish brown in colour, and highly fragrant; far superior to common
cinnamon varieties such as Cinnamon Cassia, known popularly as
“Cassia”, which is grown throughout Southeast Asia and has provided competition
for Ceylon cinnamon down the centuries due to its economical price.
Despites
such advantages, the island’s cinnamon was not cultivated with commercial
intent in earlier times ‘it grows wild in the woods as other trees, by them no
more esteemed”, explained Robert knox (1681). “the wood which they burn is
cinnamon,’ commented Ralph Fitch( 1589), although it was often extracted from
the fire due to its overpowering reek.
Cinnamon-Kurundu
in Sinhala, pattai in Tamil- was a royal monopoly and therefore brought no gain
to the villagers. Nevertheless, it was-and is added to vegetable, fish and meat
curries and also administrated in the indigenous herbal medicine hela-veda,
and later in India –imported ayurveda, to relieve, as knox put it, “ Aches and
pains”- more specifically in the abdomen and respiratory system. Cinnamon
certainly has antibacterial and antifungal properties and act as a carminative
& restorative. Moreover, recent studies suggest it may be beneficial in the
treatment of type 2 diabetes, arthritis & cholesterol.
The
arrival in 1505 of the Portuguese, the first European colonists, ended the
non-commercial cultivation of cinnamon as they recognized the production and
subsequently became the first European to trade in true cinnamon . the spice
was precious enough for Portugal and Holland to engage in battle to control its
trade, and in 1656 the Dutch seized the island, which was by then the world’s
largest cinnamon supplier. The Dutch east Indian company substainlly increased
cultivation, and cinnamon became the main purpose of the Dutch presence in the
island. “ The shores of the island are full of it”. a Dutch captain enthused,
“and it is the best in all the orient: downwind of the island, one can still
smell cinnamon eight leagues out to sea.”
Ceylon
cinnamon is a tropical evergreen tree of the laurel family that can grow up to
seven metres in height. The ovate leaves with their five highly visible veins
are the most remarkable aspect. When young they are cherry like in color, which
then turns to lime green & finally dark green. They are particularly shiny,
and have a thick texture that makes them rustle in seasonal winds. Blossom time
I eagerly await, when the white, spicily-fragrant flowers attract myriad birds
& bees. But it is only when I cut unruly branches that I experience the
authentic smell of cinnamon.
When
cultivated cinnamon trees are pruned two years after being planted, which produce
“tillering’, an abundant growth of bark-yielding shoots. Harvesting starts when
the trees are over three years old & takes place twice a year following the
rainy seasons when the wetted bark is more easily stripped. Nevertheless, it is
an intricate process, traditionally carried out by members of the salgama caste
who have no connection with growers.
The
shoots are cut, scraped with a blade to remove the rough outer bank and then
rubbed with a brass block to smooth the inner bark. A curved knife called
kokaththa is used to make two parallel cuts on the shoot after which the peeler
man oeuvres the inner bark free in one piece. The next stage involves the
pieces of bark being rolled together, a method called “telescoping”. Then they
are air dried indoors & curled to resemble fine, papery quills. Finally
after being sun-dried, they are trimmed precisely to 106.7cm (42 inches), the
length specified by the world cinnamon market. And packed in 45kg cylindrical
bales.
Sri
Lanka products more than four-fifths of the worlds’ output of the true grade of
the spice, other exporters being china, Indian & Vietnam. Despite such
overwhelming dominance in the world market, cinnamon was considered a minor
export crop in comparison to tea due to its small land coverage. But in 2011,
Sri Lanka unveiled pure Ceylon cinnamon, the country’s second national brand,
the first being pure Ceylon tea.
The
main importer of pure Ceylon cinnamon is Mexico, where it is used extensively
in the preparation of chocolate. Elsewhere, especially in Europe and America,
it is employed to flavor desserts such as apple pie, doughnuts and buns, as well
as tea. Cocoa and liqueurs. It is also employed in America to flavor cereals,
bread-based dishes and fruits. In the middle east it is the used in savoury
dishes of chicken and lamb, and cinnamon powder is used in soups, drinks &
sweets.
So
the next time you purchase cinnamon ensure that it is the best the world
produces-pure Ceylon cinnamon, the cinnamon-and discover why humanity has
prized its unsurpassed flavor and aroma from time immemorial.