The
smell of the sea intermingled with the scorching heat of the sun that drifted
by as we strolled the narrow streets, enraptured by the amazing and unfamiliar
elements that unfolded before us. People hurried by, absorbed in their own
worlds. Turning a blind eye-without a doubt for those who see it every day it
is but a mundane thing. However, for us the Matara fort with its glorious
history & aged structures representing the colonial era was a fascinating
sight to behold.
Matara
believed to be named after the Nilwala river that flows through it is a
bustling coastal city located in the south. Renowned as an ancient citadel of
pre-colonial Sri Lanka, it is famous for the Dutch architecture that prevails.
Of all the structures, the most prominent is the Matara Fort, considered as the
second most important fort for the southern maritime province during the Dutch
rules of Sri Lanka. It is believed that the Portuguese built a fort in 1595,
with the help of king Don Juan Dharmapala who ruled the kingdom of Kotte.
Nevertheless, the fort that exists now was built by the Dutch around the year
1645 and handed over to the British in 1796-hence the year that can be seen as
a faded etching atop the entrance. The rampart and the gateway constructed by
limestone, granite and coral are well preserved, but the southern bastion
facing the seaside has been removed in order to grant easy access to the town
along the seaside. A modern clock tower has been built atop the remaining
rampart.
During
the Dutch era the district secretary’s house, the cinnamon, areca nut and
gunpowder storages & an elephant kraal were located within the fort’s
premises. However, now the inside of the fort is strewn with many buildings
& houses, both old & new, and an intricate net work of asphalt roads
that carry people & vehicles back & forth. Upon entering the fort, to the left is a
ground for children to play about where it is believed that the Dutch had
planted trees during their residency. Going further in, the first few streets
that branch out from the main road accommodate different government related
buildings. Some of these were built a new while some ,such as the magistrate
court, the high court and the Matara police station are found within buildings
built during the Dutch & British eras, boasting a history of more than 200
years. These buildings equipped with remarkable architectural features will
stand tall & proud even though they have taken on the hue of a picture that
has faded with time.
The
oldest building within the fort the Dutch reformatory Church, a quaint building
situated near the entrance was built by the Dutch & has a history that
spans nearly 300 years. The year etched above the entrance 1767, marks the date
that renovations were made following the Matara rebellion. The door &
window panels are made of heavy wood while the walls now show signs of
crumbling as the proper mixture to rebuild them could not be found within Sri
Lanka. Inside are gravestones on the floor dating as far back as the 1600s,
believed to be for the significant community members & beneficiaries of
their time.
Going
deeper in to the fort, one encounters many old structure, many of these
dilapidated buildings were once grand houses that belonged to prominent
officers of the Dutch army, yet now cracks have formed in the structure while
the plaster in the walls is chipped or discolored with age. Some have been
renovated & other has been abandoned while modern houses are being built
throughout the fort. The once amazing walauwas or mansions that
belonged to Sri Lankan aristocratic families have now been passed on to others
who have utilized the buildings in other ways, such as temples, while others
have been forsaken.
Returning
to the entrance, we walked up the few steps that led on to the rampart. Here we
looked at Matara city the hustle & the bustle that also carried itself in
to the fort. Coming down we ambled towards the seaside where the bastion has
been removed to look onto the “Uposathagaraya” or the chapter house located on a tiny island
connected to the fort by a bridge. Turning, our gaze came to rest upon the
little quarters that were built in to the rampart, which have accommodated many
Dutch guards in their lookout to protect the city. Thus our eyes swept along the whole fort,
admiring and absorbing the changes that have taken place & will take place
in the future so that it might remain an integral part of Matara.
