Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Sri Pada Mountain - Adams Peak


Adam’s peak is Ceylon’s most famous mountain (224.19m) although it is not as high as “Piduruthalagala, Kirigalpotta or thotapalakandha”. It is a sacred mountain to Buddhist.

All the early travelers refer to it in connection with Ceylon. “Marco Polo”, who visited the island about the year A.D 1293, says “In this island there is a very high mountain, so rocky & precipitous that the ascent to the top is impractible, as it is said, expect by the assistance of iron chains employed for that purpose. By means of these some persons attained the summit, where the tomb of Adam, our first parent, is supposed to be found. Such is the account given by the Saracens.

About fifty years later, “Iban Batuta”, the Moroccan who ascended the mountain speaks of the chains, of the trees of the “leaves which never falls” & of the “flowers of various colors with the red roses” there were no doubt the rhododendrons. Another fourteenth century  travelers; the floren tine friar marignolli,writes, “On the high mountain of which we have spoken, perhaps after paradise the highest mountain on the face of the earth, some think is paradise itself. But this is mistaken ; for the name shows the contrary.. & from seyllan to paradise (he adds) according to what the natives say after the tradition of their fathers, is a distance of forty Italian miles.

The peak is seen far more readily from the sea than from the land when it is not shrouded by mists & fogs. Arab traders who came to Ceylon from the beginning of the Christian era, or even before saw the peak in the distance in changing colors according to the time of day. They came to accept the tradition that Adam & Eve found a home in the sacred mountain after they were expelled from paradise. They called it “Father Adam’s Mountain” Baba-Adam-mail & later, pico de Adam.

After the steep climb through mountain paths & forest one arrive at the peak. The summit is of elliptic form & is surrounded by a parapet about five feet high. Within the enclosure, which is called the “Maluwa” a level space of irregular breadth runs all the ways round. In the middle is a rock nine feet at the highest point. In the centre of it is a hollow exhibiting the outline of a foot print.

King “Walagambahu” (First century B.C) is said to have discovered the foot print. Driven into  exile by the Tamil invaders he wandered in the jungles around the peak. One day he saw a deer in the distance which lured him to the top of the mountain & vanished. The foot print according to the Buddhist tradition is that the “Gauthama Buddha” . the “Mahawanshaya” states “when the teacher, compassionate to the world, had preached the doctrine there (At Kelaniya) he rose, left the trace of his foot step, plain to sight on samanthakuta & after he had spend the day as it pleased him, on the side of the mountain with the brotherhood, he set forth to” Dighavapi”.


Some have claimed that the ture impression of the foot was left on a precious stone produced for the purpose by the “God Saman” which lies buried beneath the large rock & that the foot print on the exposed hollow is an artificial print cut to the order of a Sinhalese king. Vishnuite Hindus associate the peak with saman, worshipped in India as Lakshman. The saivities claim that the foot print is that of “Siva”. The Sinhalese call the mountain sripada & sometimes “Samanalakandha or Samanthakuta Paruwatha” . the Portuguese writer De COuto refers to a tradition that the impression on the rock is a mark left by Saint Thomas

The majority of pilgrims climb the peak during the north-east monsoon when it is not covered by the mist, fog & rain. There are several routes, of which the most popular is that via maskeliya after detraining at Hatton. Vehicles halt near the Dalhousie tea factory & the climb of begins about a mile from there. Many pilgrims stop at the “Sitha Gangula” , bathe & wear clean clothes before resuming the climb. There are flights of steps in the steeper parts & the ascent. Lies through forest tracks. A rock which marks the base of the cone of the peak is called “ Indi-Katu-Pana where there are resting places or “Ambalama”. The last lap from Indi-Katu-Pana to the summit is over a precipitous surface, but the pilgrim is helped by ladders, iron railings & chains. Three hours is about the shortest time that even the most athletic climber will take to reach the top.

The Rathnapura route is more strenuous. A motor road takes one as far as carney estate at Gilimale. Between the gilimale & the summit,  the ascent upward of 2128.6m is made in less that 14.48km. there are other routes from Dehiowita & Kuruwita, respectively, which meet the Rathnapura route at Heramitipana. Most pilgrims reach the peak in the early hours of the morning to see the sun rise & the wonderful phenomenon called “the shadow of the peak “


This is how the Bella Sidney Woolfs describes it : to those waiting for the dawn on the summit of the peak, the sun takes a long while to rise. It is bitterly cold. Below lies a drift of snowy cloud pierced by dark peaks, a mysterious no Man’s land. Slowly the clouds turned to gold & rose pink- roll away, the sun comes up like a golden ball & mile upon mile of mountain & plains is revealed. As soon as the sun is up the famous shadow of the peak appears to westward. It lies like a huge dark cone across the country- some times of a blue so vivid that no word describes the intensity of the color. As the sun rise higher it fades away. It is an extra-ordinary apparition-a fitting climax to a night spent on  the peak.